Far from the madding crowd is indeed a befitting name for this wonderful tented refuge on Lake Bunyonyi. A picture paints a thousand words they say, but the photographs I had seen of Ha’Buharo fell far short of preparing me for the angelic weekend I was to spend at this enchanting island of bird song.

The journey from Kampala was four hours, and so I got to Kabale town at noon having left Kampala at eight in the morning. I found my way to the awaiting Ha’Buharo motor boat docked at the landing called ‘Harutindo’, literarily translated from the local language  as ‘the bridge’.

After indulging myself to a good old fashioned English breakfast, I, along with Tara, a fellow guest and an avid bird watcher spent the first part of the morning playing golf at the islands eight hole mini golf range, along the lake shore, quite an experience! In the evening we dined around a camp fire and later burned off the calories as we danced the vigorous ‘kikiga’ dance with the Ha’Buharo local troupe.

My final day was spent off the island with the ‘Batwa’ the pygmies about one hour’s boat ride away. Fascinating people, living in a world of their own but that’s a story for another day.

The lake is refreshingly unspoiled with magnificently still, clear water free of bilharzias and crocs. Dick, the charming boat diver, come tour guide brought the captivating history of the lake to life as he graphically narrated the historical tales of the different islands on our way to Ha’Buharo.

The most interesting of the tales is the story of ‘Akampene Island’, where it is said that many years ago, girls in the community that became pregnant out of wedlock were taken, abandoned and left to starve to death! However Dick was quick to add, that it is also said that poor men within the community that could not afford bride price would go to the island at night and take the banished pregnant girls as their wives.

Then there is the story of ‘Sharps Island’, to which lepers were deposited and left to live in isolation under the care of the missionary Dr Sharp.

So, the boat ride in it’s self is a sweet and sour combination of the therapeutic effect of crystal clear serene waters and the emotional and journey into and almost unreal history of lake Bunyonyi.

Ha’Buharo grabs you from the instance you set eyes on it. Its circular shape and lush green foliage and trees are spell binding. The water around the landing pier is covered with the most beautiful water lilies. Joseph, the manager, in the same boisterous welcoming manner as Dick, helped me out of the boat and within a few minutes I had walked up a winding cobbled pathway to the Club House. The smell of freshly baked bread and a hot face towel was a wonderful welcome as I settled into the lounge to check in. The lounge décor is simple and tasteful very much in keeping with the surrounding environment.

After a speedy check in, I was escorted to ‘Shamaza tent’ magically hidden among the trees. That evening after a solar heated hot shower in an en-suite bathroom with flush toilets, I sat on the tent deck drinking wine, the orange rays of the setting sun shone through the tree tops creating a spectacular sight. I had the most comfortable nights sleep in crisp cotton bed linen and awoke the next morning to the angelic melodies of Birdsong!

The Ha’Buharo experience is indeed therapy for the soul as their brochure says, and is fast becoming a favorite stop over for gorilla trekkers headed for the Bwindi impenetrable forest.

Review by:

JAN LEWIS